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Wrenching


Ghost expounds upon:

Wrenching Philosophy

Safety Upgrades

Optimizing Your Bike for Touring

Common Repairs

Performance Mods

Cruiser Photos

Vector Photos

 

Safety Upgrades

A Louder Horn

After the '97 Hog Cruise, the Cruiser's horn was shot. For a louder alternative, I decided on Howard's Hog Horn (770-992-0034). It is an air horn, with the compressor fitting under the stock horn cover. It is a decent piece of work, but a bit expensive ($120+). In the end, though, I'm quite happy with the louder note. By the way, this horn is now available through J&P Cycles (800-397-4844).


Brighter Headlights

In an effort to see and be seen, I elected to give the Cruiser a brighter headlight and brighter spotlights.

For the headlight, there are two parts. Some bikes are already equipped to accept halogen bulbs. Other bikes come stock with halogen sealed-beam bulbs. Replacing the small halogen bulbs is always cheaper than replacing sealed beam units, so I suggest replacing your sealed beam unit with a lens/halogen bulb combination.

I purchased a Hella lens for the Cruiser. I liked it because it has a smooth surface, with the fluting on the inside of the lens. This makes washing the lens much easier.

For a bulb, I elected to go with a 55W/100W model. This gives you a typical (but marginally whiter) low beam, and a serious high beam. I did not beef up the wiring for this mod, and have had no problems in nearly 20,000 miles.

For the spotlights, I purchased halogen spots from J&P Cycles (800-397-4844). Their 15-085 bulbs are rated at 37.5 watts and 70,000 candle power (each). The stock bulbs are rated in the mid-to-high 20s for wattage, and put out 22,000 candlepower. The Motor Company now makes halogen bulbs as well, but they're quite a bit more expensive. If they last long twice as long, and are just as bright (or brighter), then they are a good buy.


Note:

The halogen spots run very hot. Consequently, they don't last very long. During last year's 14,000-mile riding season, I went through a total of three of these bulbs. They're not for everybody, but they are bright.


Another spotlight modification involves the on/off switch. In the stock configuration, the passing lamps are wired as follows:

Lights-----Handlebar Switch---(low)--+----Low beam headlight
Bus              | (high)            |
                 |                Passing
             high beam          lamp switch
             headlight               |
                                     +----Passing lamps

I installed a three-position center-off 15A switch in place of the stock passing lamp switch. The resulting wiring is shown below.

Lights-+---Handlebar Switch---(low)--+----Low beam headlight
Bus    |         | (high)            |
       |         |                   0  3-pos Passing lamp switch
       |     high beam              ----o-+
       |     headlight               0    |
       |                             |    +--Passing lamps
       +-----------------------------+
                 (new wire)

The diagram shows the passing lamp switch in the (center) off position. In the "up" position, the lamps feed off the low beams using the stock wiring. I retained this configuration so I could still flash people with the headlight switch and have the passing lamps turn on and off. In the "down" position, the lamps feed off a new 12-gauge stranded wire feeding directly off the "lights" bus. In this position, the lamps are on all the time, regardless of headlight switch position.


Extra Tail Lights & Running Lights

If they can see me, they probably won't hit me. That is the logic behind adding lights to the back and sides of the Cruiser. The mods required the addition of the following:

  • Two dual-filament bullet lamps, mounted on either side of the license plate. J&P Cycles (800-397-4844) makes a little chrome bracket just for this task. I purchased dual-filament lamps so they could echo the brake lamp (i.e., running and brake circuits).
  • Two dual-filament flush-mounting handlebar lamps designed by Doss. They are designed to flush-mount to 1" bars, which is the exact size of the rear dresser bars offered for the Heritage Softail. I purchased dual-filament lamps so they could act as both running lamps and turn signals. Check them out.

The following are some notes about performing these mods:

  • On the FLSTC, the rear harness is permanently connected to the brake light, so attaching lamp feeds from there was impossible. I elected to solder connections to the necessary wires in the harness and route the wires such that the harness can be removed as designed (i.e., disconnect connectors and pull the harness out through the brake lamp hole in the fender). This meant adding connectors for the new lamps (a wise move anyway).
  • Running the wires for the side marker lights through the dresser bars was worth the effort.
  • The lamps in the Doss marker lights are the same as the bulbs found in the stock HD fender tip lamps. They don't consume a lot of power, so their addition did not disrupt the functionality of the turn signal module.
  • The dual-filament lamps used in bullet lights are non standard. You won't find them in an auto parts store. When you place your order, remember to order some spare bulbs at the same time.

 

     
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