Ghost expounds upon:
Cruiser Photos
Vector Photos
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Common
Repairs
Front End
I was led into temptation and decided that I had to chrome the front
end of the Cruiser. The polished aluminum just didn't do it for me. I
have some notes from this experience.
- When you prepare your old legs for exchange or chroming, don't forget
that little caliper bushing on the lower bolt (not on all models). I
forgot it and had to buy a new one for the new fork legs. If you forget
it, your caliper won't align properly and your lower caliper bolt will
bottom out on the rotor (yeesh).
- If you decide to replace the polished fork tin and slider covers with
chrome versions, bite the bullet and either have them chromed or buy
genuine HD replacements. The lower-priced mail-order stuff just doesn't
fit the same.
- If you decide to install those sexy wind deflectors on your FL front
end, beware that it will force your windshield down to its lowest level.
HD claims that they have a bracket that brings back the full range of
motion. Also, this combination is just barely compatible with
HD's mini-tachometer, which installed just behind the windshield. I
spent a lot of time playing with the alignment to get it right.
- If you're ever taking your forks apart, invest the ~$60 in
Progressive
springs. They are the front spring of infinite righteousness.
- While your there, replace that HD fork oil with Belray 20wt. The combination
of the Progressive's and the Belray has made me a happier man.
- Follow the "fall way" procedure in the HD service manual
when installing your front fork. If you mess this up and over-torque
the neck bearing, it will crush. Then you have to replace the neck bearings
and races, and that, my friends, is a bitch of a job.
Base Gasket Repair
When your Evo's base gaskets fail (and they will), make sure you go with
the James metal base gaskets kit with the beads of sealant already on
the gaskets. Some other notes about tearing your motor down to the cases.
- When pulling the jugs, pull them up far enough that you can see the
wrist pin. Then pull the circlips (or spring wires), remove the wrist
pins and pull the jugs and pistons as a unit.
- Personally, I've heard too many stories about the circlips/spring
clips disintigrating and allowing a wrist pin to carve its initials
in the cylinder wall. I called Axtell and ordered replacement wrist
pins and teflon buttons. The buttons hold the wrist pin in place and
are held in place themselves by the cylinder wall (once you insert the
piston). That's why their made out of Teflon; they can rub against the
cylinder wall ad infinitum and not damage it. This mod costs less than
$50 and now I'll never have to worry about the wrist pins again. An
ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
- Check your studs while you're there. If they have the shoulder up
high, away from the case, or if they are only finger tight, replace
them. The up-to-date version of the studs places the shoulder down against
the case for torquing purposes, and the case-side threads are precoated
with threadlock.
- CCI exhaust gaskets are easier to install than the original HD ones.
Camshaft Replacement
The Cruiser sports an Andrews EV-27 camshaft. For a bolt-in cam, it increased
the valve train noise quite a bit, but I'm getting used to it. Some notes
regarding cam replacement:
- If you haven't already, replace the stock INA cam bearing with a Torrington
bearing. If you choose to swap bearings yourself. Use the JIMS Cam
Bearing Removal Tool to get the old bearing out. There is no
substitute.
- Check the gears on the cams for size. If they have the same size teeth,
simply install the new cam. If they have different sized teeth, have
the cam gear pulled off the old cam and pressed onto the new one. Note
that this is not a task for the tame. Timing a cam is serious business,
and eyeballing it isn't sufficient.
- After a cam change, you will likely need to rejet your carb to get
the engine to run right.
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